domingo, 8 de febrero de 2015
The Long Hard Slope
In Spain it's known as La Cuesta de Enero - The January Slope. After the Christmas lights come down and the wrapping paper has been stuffed into bin bags and tossed into the nearest rubbish skip along with the congealed remnants of whatever unfortunate beast has been sacrificed to grace the festive feast, January awaits us with her icy embrace and whispers frostily in our ear; "Check your bank balance, darling - it's time for a reality check."
The true nature of this reality check is that, for many of us, The January Slope is something of a myth. It would be closer to the mark to call it a February, March, April, May and Etcetera Slope. If you have ever gone through a period of reduced income with no clear light at the end of the tunnel, you'll know of what I am speaking. As a teacher of English as a foreign language I may be fulfilling a vital role in aiding the future economic security of my students, but I am also a member of a notoriously underpaid and undervalued profession. Times are tough; reduced hours make for personal austerity measures that leave little to spend on the small day-to-day luxuries and none whatsoever for the more substantial ones, those day trips and holidays that even now after years of La Crisis, many take for granted. Getting from one end of the month to the other is like vaulting across a chasm with a pole that barely spans the gap.
Personal woes aside, this part of Spain has been hit especially hard by the economic downturn and there are countless families and individuals for whom each new month is a painful hike to the top of a stony slope, only to find that another awaits them over the horizon, then another and another. Among young men in the Province of Granada, the unemployment rate stands at around a third, and many of this generation have no prospects of ever finding a way out of the shadows. They are the Ni-Nis, with no education and no job, and although we must take personal responsibility for our life choices, what realistic, viable and long-term futures are there for these young men to whom local councils can at best offer a temporary contract cleaning the streets so that they can pay a little national insurance and claim their unemployment benefit?
Over the heads of many homeowners hangs another doom, that of desahucios or evictions. Although many banks have been criticised for their draconian approach to families who cannot afford to pay the mortgage, the evictions continue. And it is not only in Greece that the threat of eviction has led desperate individuals to go that final desperate step and take their own lives.
There is money in Alfacar and in Granada. I have visited some truly palatial residences which have taken my breath away; huge edifices with lounges the size of aircraft hangars, sweeping driveways and electronic security, Olympic-sized pools and acres of patio. They seem to belong to a different world and, behind their high rails and dense cypress hedges, they do indeed have an air of being insulated from the grind that is normal daily life for so many.
A stone's throw away in spatial terms from such material security, but a world away in every other sense are the people I see on the streets of Granada everyday, sitting in doorways wrapped up as best they can against the intense winter cold, with a few carrier bags of possessions or a small case, a plastic cup on the pavement in front of them and a plea written on a piece of cardboard that might read something like this:
"I am from Asturias. I have lost my job and my house, and I have two children to feed. Please help me."
While there are undoubtedly organised begging rings at work in the city and it can be difficult to decide who are the real victims of hardship and who, the scammers, there are without any doubt many genuine cases. So, what options are there for those who have lost out in the economic struggle? There is the self employment route - but when you are earning perhaps 700 euros a month and the State astonishingly demands 300 euros in national security from autonomous workers, where is the incentive to venture down this risky road? How can you pay the rent and the bills and buy food and clothes on the ridiculous residue that the State leaves you with?
If trying to earn an honest living is simply not viable there is another route, and that is to earn what one can in the so-called black economy. While I obviously draw a very firm line between the provision of legitimate goods and services and anything totally unacceptable involving theft, drugs and forced prostitution, this is something I neither condone nor condemn because, regardless of the illegalities, earning in this way makes the difference between sink or swim for countless thousands of people on the breadline.
And however the Tax Office might huff and puff about loss of earnings for the Government coffers, there are far greater evils in society than gleaning a dishonest buck or two. For all the endless political one-upmanship and all the jazzy music with which this or that politician is welcomed on stage at the latest party rally to regurgitate the usual tired old sound bites relating to growth and collective responsibility, there are still far too many people for whom survival in the here and now is literally a matter of counting every cent.
Universiade Granada 2015 ...... What Universiade?
Of course, I hardly need to mention this. All of you winter sports fans around the world will be riveted to the thrilling winter sports action from the globally renowned event that is currently being transmitted live from Granada to every corner of the globe.
I beg your pardon? What did you say? You have never heard of the Universiade? But, but, but... (splutter of indignation)... it is (quote) "one of the great international sports events" and (quote) "second only to the Olympic Games" in terms of prestige.
You're absolutely certain that you've never heard of it? Somewhat incredulous though I am, I guess I will have to fill you in. In its various manifestations, the Universiade is an international sports competition for students, one of which is the Winter Students World Championships. The 27th Winter Universiade is currently taking place in - yes, you've guessed it, Granada. Starting on February 4th, the event lasts eleven days and has drawn more than 2,500 participants from no less than fifty countries to compete in a variety disciplines including artistic ice skating, snowboarding, Alpine skiing, ice hockey and curling.
Fifty participating countries! Surely, then, there cannot be a single person in Granada who is unaware of its existence? Think again. As a teacher of English as a second language, many of my students are studying, or have studied, at the University of Granada, a seat of learning with a prestigious faculty of sports science and one that is closely involved with the Universiade. More than this, the majority of my students are born and bred here. Yet when I recently asked them what they knew about it, roughly two thirds had never even heard of the Universiade.
Okay. Winter sports are not everybody's cup of tea. Surely, though, such a major event must be attracting enormous national and international media coverage?
Think again. The hour-long afternoon news programme on Spanish national television devotes what is, to my way of thinking, an excessive 20 minutes or more to sports. The vast majority of this time is taken up by the unhealthy obsession with every last trivial syllable uttered by every key football manager/trainer in the country. Yesterday - Saturday - was no exception. And I'm sure you have already guessed what comes next. Not a mention of the Universiade.
Sadly, it seems that the Granada Universiade of 2015 was doomed to oblivion long ago, and a great part of the responsibility for this lamentable indifference has to rest in the hands of the local administration. Even though I am not a great fan of sports in general, I recognise the enormous role that sport plays in promoting health, team values and international cooperation - this latter at a time in our history when jihadists and frightening dictatorships such as that of North Korea are striving to achieve exactly the opposite.
It figures, then, that the City Council has been presented with a marvellous opportunity to focus the world's attention on a part of Spain with a fascinating history, a priceless cultural heritage and a venerable university tradition. In addition, at a time when the city is desperate to drag itself out of an economic quagmire and promote itself as a major tourist destination, this event would seem like the publicity equivalent of manna from heaven.
But Granada has got it wrong again. A Metro system that the city doesn't need, is years behind schedule and millions of euros over budget... an inability to protect the historic Albaycin neighbourhood from graffiti and decay (thus threatening its World Heritage Site status), the inexorable erosion of the fertile farmlands of the Vega as it is swallowed up by ugly suburban and industrial sprawl... perhaps the failure to capitalise on the Universiade is not surprising when viewed in the broader context.
Well done, Granada. The proverbial gift horse must be shaking his head in despair...
I beg your pardon? What did you say? You have never heard of the Universiade? But, but, but... (splutter of indignation)... it is (quote) "one of the great international sports events" and (quote) "second only to the Olympic Games" in terms of prestige.
You're absolutely certain that you've never heard of it? Somewhat incredulous though I am, I guess I will have to fill you in. In its various manifestations, the Universiade is an international sports competition for students, one of which is the Winter Students World Championships. The 27th Winter Universiade is currently taking place in - yes, you've guessed it, Granada. Starting on February 4th, the event lasts eleven days and has drawn more than 2,500 participants from no less than fifty countries to compete in a variety disciplines including artistic ice skating, snowboarding, Alpine skiing, ice hockey and curling.
Fifty participating countries! Surely, then, there cannot be a single person in Granada who is unaware of its existence? Think again. As a teacher of English as a second language, many of my students are studying, or have studied, at the University of Granada, a seat of learning with a prestigious faculty of sports science and one that is closely involved with the Universiade. More than this, the majority of my students are born and bred here. Yet when I recently asked them what they knew about it, roughly two thirds had never even heard of the Universiade.
Okay. Winter sports are not everybody's cup of tea. Surely, though, such a major event must be attracting enormous national and international media coverage?
Think again. The hour-long afternoon news programme on Spanish national television devotes what is, to my way of thinking, an excessive 20 minutes or more to sports. The vast majority of this time is taken up by the unhealthy obsession with every last trivial syllable uttered by every key football manager/trainer in the country. Yesterday - Saturday - was no exception. And I'm sure you have already guessed what comes next. Not a mention of the Universiade.
Sadly, it seems that the Granada Universiade of 2015 was doomed to oblivion long ago, and a great part of the responsibility for this lamentable indifference has to rest in the hands of the local administration. Even though I am not a great fan of sports in general, I recognise the enormous role that sport plays in promoting health, team values and international cooperation - this latter at a time in our history when jihadists and frightening dictatorships such as that of North Korea are striving to achieve exactly the opposite.
It figures, then, that the City Council has been presented with a marvellous opportunity to focus the world's attention on a part of Spain with a fascinating history, a priceless cultural heritage and a venerable university tradition. In addition, at a time when the city is desperate to drag itself out of an economic quagmire and promote itself as a major tourist destination, this event would seem like the publicity equivalent of manna from heaven.
But Granada has got it wrong again. A Metro system that the city doesn't need, is years behind schedule and millions of euros over budget... an inability to protect the historic Albaycin neighbourhood from graffiti and decay (thus threatening its World Heritage Site status), the inexorable erosion of the fertile farmlands of the Vega as it is swallowed up by ugly suburban and industrial sprawl... perhaps the failure to capitalise on the Universiade is not surprising when viewed in the broader context.
Well done, Granada. The proverbial gift horse must be shaking his head in despair...
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